Like shalini parfum, jardin nocturne is a potent white floral with the most decadent opening of jasmine and saffron. Paradis provence shalini kumar, the creator of s h a l i n i, jardin nocturne, amorem rose and the new paradis provence, was born in bombay, india and raised in london. The design, reminiscent of a butterfly wing, echoes the preciousness of the fragrance. Frederic malle and his perfume designers want the same things. Roucel began in 1973 while working at chanel as an apprentice and then went on to work at iff, quest, and dragoco. Jul 01, 2016 i was like that listener when i declared maurice roucel to be my favourite perfumer two years ago, partly because he was one of the very few highprofile perfumers whose name i could remember due to crncntws, cant remember nonchinese names too well syndrome, and also he was the nose of one of my favourite perfumes, le labos jasmin 17. Although his legendary olfactory style is now characterized for the most part by opulent sensuality sprung from his preference for musk, white flowers and amber the precise methodology of his original profession has remained. His work is a unique combination of creativity, passion and expertise. Maurice roucel with notes of lavender, bergamot, cinnamon, cloves, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, guaiac wood and cedar. These people were usually given a temporary job in the perfume industry. The book was the brainchild of clara molloy, who founded the niche perfume brand memo the same year that the book came out. Maurice roucel began his career in the perfume industry at chanel in 1973 as the head chromatography chemist. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with.
Edward morgan forster 18791970 wrote maurice as a relatively young man, aged 34, at a time when old europe was starting to fall apart. When i scented it i started wondering why i had been looking for. I admire that he never repeats himself, is always in search for a new way to paint a fragrant painting. Roucel began his career in perfumery on february 19, 1973 while working as the head chromatography chemist at chanel for 6 years. Before joining symrise, roucel worked for several renowned fragrance companies. Maurice roucel was the winner of the prix francois coty in 2002. Flechier, olivia giacobetti, dominique ropion, maurice roucel, edmond roudnitska. Musc ravageur, by maurice roucel for frederic malle a. At the opening, shalini parfum by maurice roucel unveils tuberose as the centerpiece of the fragrance and m. Musc ravageur, by maurice roucel for frederic malle blogger. Frederic malle perfume comprehensive guide perfume posse. Still luminous, its as though the fragrances white petals are glowing under moonlight. For a thorough list of his accomplishments, check out our maurice roucel page.
Composed by maurice roucel as an act of seduction and generosity, musc ravageur is an uncompromising oriental, which trumps current fads. Its explosive departure of bergamot, tangerine and cinnamon is set against a backdrop of vanilla, musk and amber. I must admit it was practically love at first sniff, and one of the very rare occasions in which i didnt apply the three trial rule. Symrises master perfumer, genuine artist perfumer, sensual aesthete of the exclusive raw materials. Francis kurkdjian interview les belles rencontres du printemps printemps paris 2015 duration. Thats a shame because an existing fragrance opportunity that intersects with music and technology is right under their noseand the fragrance industrys.
Roucel started his training under henry robert, who at the time shaped chanels fragrance world as its perfumer. A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a nose french. Maurice roucel joined chanels laboratory as a chemist in 1973, and since then has been a selftaught perfumer. Maurice rouvier, french statesman who had some success in balancing the budget during periods of his seven terms as minister of finance and two terms as premier. A book on the exhibition created jointly with the musee. Lolita lempicka marc jacobs montale moschino mugler narciso rodriguez. Explore free books, like the victory garden, and more browse now. What perfumes would you pair with characters in books moviesshows. Edwards 1998 perfume legends was the first book to take us behindthescenes of the fragrance industry, offering rare interviews with some of the most legendary perfumers discussing the most iconic french fragrances.
Shalini parfum was created by perfumer maurice roucel. Master perfumer at symrise, maurice roucel is considered as one of the best perfumers of his time. He started his career at chanel, where he spent 6 years and discovered the mysteries of hauteparfumerie. Although his legendary olfactory style is now characterized for the most part by opulent sensuality sprung from his preference for musk, white flowers and amber the precise methodology of his original profession has. Maurice roucel is one of my favourite perfumers, as well. Having created masterpieces for guerlain, hermes and gucci, maurice roucel s fragrances rank among our favorites. Shalini sounds like a perfect white bouquet, and while big white florals dont always work for me, those that do become true friends of mine. Its an amazing accomplishment when you think about it it shares the same basic dna as musc ravageur, and even smells somewhat similar and yet the feel of one is a hundred million miles away from the other. Dans tes bras has arranged a usual array of popular perfume notes into one of.
A tale of homosexual love in early 20thcentury england, it follows maurice hall from his schooldays through university and beyond. Maurice roucel began his career in the perfume industry at chanel in 1973 as. Maurice roucel is a contemporary perfumer who has worked at companies iff, quest. Shalini kumar wanted the perfume to evoke her childhood memories of tuberose and butterflies in her garden. Jan 20, 2014 the format of the 2007 book 22 perfumers. Perfumier frederic malle was born into the world of fragrances. Most past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as a perfume technician in charge of blending formulas or chemist. Upon the completion of his studies with robert, roucel joined quest international, where he worked for twelve years. Maurice roucel made guerlain insolence edt as a modern version of apres londee.
Dans tes bras in your arms, whose name hints at intimate embraces, straddles the line between an invitation to caress and. Frederic malle perfume comprehensive guide perfume posse best perfumes comprehensive guide by perfume note. Finding the perfect gift can be an interesting and wonderful experience. However, it was not published until 1971, a year after his death. Not only does apres londee not give the impression that it was created more then a century ago. After my post about linden perfumes i ordered zeta by andy tauer, and of course had to get three other tauer samples so i. He is the author of hermes 24, faubourg, frederic malle musc ravageur and serge lutens iris silver mist, among many others. Not only did gallimard publish the best authors in its time, but its books also look like. Interview with perfumer maurice roucel fragrant reading. Brian eno, maurice roucel and the perfume of unfinished.
Roucel created jardin nocturne as an ode to a fragrant evening in a garden. One of perfumerys brightest stars is undoubtedly the legendary maurice roucel, presently of symrise. The fragrance industry has recognized him with numerous accolades and awards and since 2011, maurice roucel is chevalier des arts et des lettres. Ive been wearing musc ravageur for almost 10 years. It is especially illuminating on the kind of balance a great and successful creative perfumer attempts to strike between needed commercialism and his reflection on art. Yes, these perfumes are not cheap, and i do not know whether they are distributed in russia or in. Nov 05, 2014 are we ready for another turn with maurice roucel after what happened with muscs ravageur. Symrise perfumer maurice roucel presents his work at the museum.
He became a perfumer in 1978, and has since worked for iff, dragoco and quest. Paradis provence by shalini at indigo perfumery paradis provence is the essence of the land we call provence, paradise on earth. Interview with perfumer maurice roucel fragrant reading highly recommended read. Made by maurice roucel in 1995, this is a unique throwback to those elegant, supremely french perfumes of yore when ladies who lunched wore couture, carried hermes bags, and wore fragrant statements that left an emphatic presence in the room behind them. Dans tes bras by maurice roucel, the new frederic malle ive only sniffed this on a scent strip no skin tests allowed. Jun 04, 2015 maurice roucel takes musc ravageur out of the bedroom and into the nursery, refashioning it as helmut lang edp. While many industry perfumers complete significant chemistry training as part of their studies, maurice roucel was hired entirely for his technical expertise, spending years with chanel in the 70s as the head chromatography chemist before a deep interest in the artistic side of the business led him to begin training as a perfumer with chanels inhouse perfumer. An old friend i dont know about you, but sometimes my senses get worn out from trying new things. During this time he began an apprenticeship under henri robert, the then inhouse parfumeur at chanel. Maurice roucel creates latest ferrari scent, scuderia ferrari forte. Having launched the republican journal legalite in 1870, rouvier, a supporter of leon gambettaone of the founding fathers of the third. And when i say coffee table book i mean it, it covers half of my coffee table. Brian eno and perfumer maurice roucel collaborated on a fragrance project in the late eighties that never came to fruition.
Maurice roucel is a perfumer whose work i admire for its originality, boldness and unapologetic sensuality, which are clear even in his big brand creations. I stand at the end of the long, elegant, crystalandsilverlaid dinner table at the carlyle hotel on madison avenue in manhattan. The following is an excerpt from a fantastic book by. My three premier figuier, passage denfer and vanilia all last on me as well as the best of them. Roucel smoothed every facet like a french ariadne spinning gauzy silk, surrounded by the dewy radiance or neroli and and lily of the valley and a pinch of spicy coriander hinting in the first while to the lavish greenery of gardenia. Composed by maurice roucel as an act of seduction and generosity, musc ravageur is an uncompromising oriental, which runs against current fads. A sensual perfume, powerful yet perfectly controlled, dramatic and mysterious. The native french won the prix francois coty and the oscar of perfume, among others. He worked at chanel for six years as the lead chromatography chemist.
Maurice roucel is a contemporary perfumer who has worked at companies iff, quest, dragoco and presently symrise. It was written in 191914, and revised in 1932 and 19591960. Indigo perfumery presents the fourth beautiful s h a l i n i pure parfum. Shalini perfume is part of our sample program, however, due to the limitation and high concentration of the perfume, the sample vial contains only one drop for a single application. This perfume is rare, but beautiful, and we love to support really beautiful perfumes.
After discovering maurice roucel s perfumes such as tocade, 24 faubourg, linstant, insolence, musc ravageur and many more you can also discover his sense of humor, earthiness, and intelligence in this interview given to symrise, monsieur roucel, perfumes classically consist of smells from meadows and forests, fruits and flowers, water and wood. Symrise perfumer maurice roucel presents his work at the. Maurice is probably the first literary work of fiction to deal with male homosexuality in such an open, sincere fashion. I kept a perfume article from grazia france magazine that i read a while back and here is a summary of its contents. Fumerie parfumerie is a portlandbased perfume retailer specializing in niche and independent fragrances for men and women. Every year you have 300400 new perfume challenges, said roucel.
Aug 16, 2011 maurice roucel is a perfumer whose work i admire for its originality, boldness and unapologetic sensuality, which are clear even in his big brand creations. Grazia had six french perfume creators or noses as theyre called in the industry each compile a list of their top 10 perfumes, excluding their own creations. At the time, when i started out in 1973, there were only people from grasse in the perfume industry. It had left me with the impression of an old and musty fragrance. Interview maurice roucel le chromatographe youtube. Fields of blue lavande, thyme, orange blossoms, sunflowers following the golden sun, ancient olive trees, the sky that turns pink as it touches the azure of the mediterranean and amorous nights drenched in jasmine. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Sounds like the perfume of unfinished business, but decades later, no one is talking about it. Truth be told, the atmosphere, in lartisan parfumeur s parisian flagship store just behind the louvre was conducive to impulse buying. Shalini shalini was created for the designer shalini kumar by maurice roucel, the perfumer who brought us such scents as musc ravageur, iris silver mist, 24 faubourg and tocade. Facebook gives people the power to share and makes the world more open and connected. Because youd be forgetting that maurice roucel, with his bon vivant moustaches and his big comforting paws fantasizing here, is also the author of one of the most austere, haughty, melancholy scents on the market, serge lutens iris silver mist. On perfume making malle, frederic, kakanias, konstantin, malle.
Feb 22, 2011 ive read several times that lartisan parfumeur perfumes dont last and this hasnt been my experience with them. Olfactive studios next release was recently unveiled at milans esxence exhibition. Gucci envy by maurice roucel for gucci 1997 australian. Dans tes bras in your arms was created by maurice roucel in 2008, it is the second one by this perfumer for editions continue reading. Join facebook to connect with maurice roucel and others you may know. A lepoque, nombreux etaient encore les parfumeurs a ne pas etre issus duniversites specialisees mais a apprendre leur metier sur le terrain, au contact dautres parfumeurs aguerris.
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